Bolo, London West End restaurant: A few fine plates do not a trattoria make

Evening Standard · Christy Spring · 2026-11-05 15:22 UTC

The TV chef has opened his first restaurant in 17 years, but does the Piccadilly Circus trattoria live up to his reputation?

Bolo review: Filling stomachs might not stop this trattoria going belly up

Bolo

At 77 years old, the only thing I intend to be running is a bath. Gennaro Contaldo has instead chosen to open his first restaurant in 17 years, in what might be one of the most brutal years in living memory to be a restaurateur in London.

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