The joy to be found in using new season olive oil
The Guardian · Itamar Srulovich, Sarit Packer ·
From bread-dipping to slow-cooked potatoes, freshly harvested olive oil is one of life’s simplest pleasures
A few years ago, we were lucky enough to meet Maggie and Martin, the wonderful couple behind Mother’s Garden, an olive grove in Catalonia, whose adventures were documented in the Channel 4 series No Going Back. And during that meeting, they crystallised something for us that we had never properly considered before: an olive is a fruit, so olive oil is, essentially, fruit juice.
Think of a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, how bright and alive it tastes, bursting with fragrance and flavour. Now think of that same juice after a few days in the fridge or poured from a carton. It still tastes of oranges, yes, but something is missing. Olive oil is much the same, although, being oil, it tastes more stable. Fresh olive oil hums with flavour, plays tricks on the tongue and is bursting with layers. In fact, it is a completely different experience from the regular stuff.
New- season oil isn’t always easy to find, admittedly, but now is the time to seek it out. Small producers and independent importers are probably your best bet – try Olive Hill Sabina from Italy, Olea Las from Greece or Olive Olive from Cyprus, all of which are now offering, or preparing to release, this autumn’s harvest. Look for a harvest date rather than a best before date, and don’t be shy about asking questions: any good supplier will be delighted that you care.
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